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Retinol: Why Is It Not An Anti-Ageing Skincare Product Ingredient?

What is Retinol

Retinol is a member of vitamin A family that has been used as a skincare product ingredient for decades. Often added in the formula to soften the signs of ageing, Retinol is a well-studied substance. 

Vitamin A is required for the healthy functioning of eyes and skin. However, as a fat-soluble compound, it stays in the body for a much longer period than water-soluble compounds like vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and vitamin B. High doses of vitamin A over period of time, can cause negative impacts on the body including enlarged liver, dry skin and serious birth defects in pregnant women. 

 

Which Skin Type Can Benefit From Retinol? 

Retinol is often used for the skincare products for ageing skin. However, due to its phototoxicity and instability, I don't use Retinol in any of Henry Tianus Eco-Luxury Skincare.

Why Retinol Is Not An Anti-Ageing?

Retinol has been used in the skincare products for many decades. Several studies suggested that Retinol can boost the collagen synthesis and cellular activity in the skin. However, Retinol is highly unstable, particularly when it is exposed to light and air.

Numerous studies showed that Retinol increases the phototoxicity of UV light. It is not suitable for day-time use. It increases skin vulnerability to UV-induced damage including the risk for skin cancer. It is highly recommended to use it at night only.

 

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Sources: Photodecomposition and Phototoxicity of Natural Retinoids, The International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, 2005 May, 2(1): 147–155; Efficacy of beta-carotene topical application in melasma: an open clinical trial, Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology, 2002 Nov-Dec, 68(6): 320-2; Beta Carotene, Nutri-Facts (Understanding Vitamins & More); β-Carotene Conversion to Vitamin A Decreases As the Dietary Dose Increases in Humans, The Journal of Nutrition, 2010 May; 140(5): 915–918.