" Ascorbyl Palmitate may intensify skin damage due to UV radiation, particularly UVB."
Ascorbyl palmitate is an oil-soluble vitamin C ester made by mixing ascorbic acid and palmitic acid together. Like other vitamin C derivatives, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate to name a few; ascorbyl palmitate offers a more stable form of vitamin C.
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Ascorbyl Palmitate May Intensify Skin Damage due to UV Radiation
Ascorbyl Palmitate is often found in various skincare products from eye cream to sunblock, however, skincare products that contain ascorbyl palmitate may not be suitable for use during the day. A study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology revealed that ascorbyl palmitate may intensify skin damage due to UV radiation, particularly UVB. Further studies may be required to investigate the safety use of this particular vitamin C derivatives.
Vitamin C derivatives such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, glyceryl ascorbate and ascorbyl glucoside are made by mixing ascorbic acid with other chemical. This process changes the nature of vitamin C from being acidic to alkaline or from water-soluble to oil-soluble or both. These kind of alterations may have caused the issue with ascorbyl palmitate.
The total opposite to ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin c in its purest form known as L-ascorbic acid has been shown to possess excellent photoprotective properties. Numerous studies showed that L-ascorbic acid prevents, reduces and reverses UV-induced photoageing in the skin. For this reason, I only use L-ascorbic acid as the source of vitamin C in my skincare products.
The efficacy and stability of L-ascorbic acid can be doubled up by combining it with stabilised vitamin E and ferulic acid. In multi-award-winning vitamin C pre-serum, Antioxidant Youthful Essence, I use a synergetic fusion of L-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, stabilised vitamin E and pro-vitamin B5 to protect the skin from free radical and UV damage. For best results, apply this all-skin-types pre-serum on freshly cleansed skin twice a day, morning and evening. Follow with serum and moisturiser. Apply sunblock before you go out during the day.
" Antioxidant Youthful Essence is the first anti-ageing formula that I created for my own skin. 20 years on, I still use this ultimate pre-serum treatment complex twice a day."
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Henry Tianus is a multi-award-winning Anti-Ageing Scientist based in London, UK. Henry Tianus has been listed as The Recognised Institute Practitioner at The Institute of Traditional Herbal Medicine and Aromatherapy (ITHMA), London (UK) since 2005. Henry Tianus's articles have been read by people in more than 100 countries with USA and UK at the top of the list. Join Henry Tianus eNewsletter to receive the latest health and wellbeing tips.
Scientific Sources: Vitamin C derivative ascorbyl palmitate promotes ultraviolet-B-induced lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity in keratinocytes, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2002 Nov, 119(5): 1103-8; Formulation and Characterization of Ascorbyl Palmitate Loaded O/W Microemulsion, International Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Vol 6, Issue 9, 2014.
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