Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Ester) May Promote UV Skin Damage


" Ascorbyl Palmitate may intensify skin damage due to UV radiation, particularly UVB."


Ascorbyl palmitate is an oil-soluble vitamin C ester made by mixing ascorbic acid and palmitic acid together. Like other vitamin C derivatives, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate to name a few; ascorbyl palmitate offers a more stable form of vitamin C.

Ascorbyl Palmitate May Intensify Skin Damage due to UV Radiation

Ascorbyl Palmitate is often found in various skincare products from eye cream to sunblock, however, skincare products that contain ascorbyl palmitate may not be suitable for use during the day. A study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology revealed that ascorbyl palmitate may intensify skin damage due to UV radiation, particularly UVB. Further studies may be required to investigate the safety use of this particular vitamin C derivatives.

Vitamin C derivatives such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, glyceryl ascorbate and ascorbyl glucoside are made by mixing ascorbic acid with other chemical. This process changes the nature of vitamin C from being acidic to alkaline or from water-soluble to oil-soluble or both. These kind of alterations may have caused the issue with ascorbyl palmitate.

The total opposite to ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin c in its purest form known as L-ascorbic acid has been shown to possess excellent photoprotective properties. Numerous studies showed that L-ascorbic acid prevents, reduces and reverses UV-induced photoageing in the skin. For this reason, I only use L-ascorbic acid as the source of vitamin C in my skincare products.


" This is amazing! I noticed a difference round my eyes after the first application. My skin felt tighter and firmer after just a couple of days." Best Wrinkle Zapper, Natural Health learn more >>>


The efficacy and stability of L-ascorbic acid can be doubled up by combining it with stabilised vitamin E and ferulic acid. In my multi-award-winning vitamin C serumAntioxidant Youthful Essence, I use a synergetic fusion of L-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, stabilised vitamin E and pro-vitamin B5 to protect the skin from free radical and UV damage. For best results, apply this all-skin-types face serum on freshly cleansed skin twice a day, morning and evening. Follow with moisturiser. Remember to wear and re-apply sunscreen every two hours or after you sweat when you are out under the sun.

The Alternative Ingredients to Ascorbyl Palmitate and Vitamin C

Vitamin C and its derivatives including ascorbyl palmitate are mostly used to boost skin's radiance and reduce signs of ageing particularly photoageing. If for any reason, you don't want to use vitamin C and its derivatives, you can opt for other skincare ingredients. 

For those with acne-prone skin and blemished complexion, I highly recommend the combination of alpha and beta hydroxy acids. These two active ingredients are great at getting rid of dead skin cells, unclogging blocked pores and boosting cell renewal. Overnight Skin Perfector has been formulated with liquorice root extract, blue chamomile, alpha and beta hydroxy acids to even out skin tone, refine pores and lighten the appearance of blemishes, wrinkles and lines. Apply this serum to freshly cleansed face and neck avoiding the eye area every evening. If required follow with moisturiser, otherwise use it on its own.


“ Excellent serum to use for the night to achieve great complexion, very effective!" Jasmin learn more >>>


For those with sensitive skin, look for skincare products that contain niacinamide and saccharide isomerate. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) has been shown to soothe, protect and strengthen sensitive skin. It boosts the production of collagen, elastin and other proteins in the skin by up to 100%. Saccharide isomerate, a plant extract that has been shown to calm sensitive skin, boost the hyaluronic acid synthesis in the skin by up to 66% and reduce the appearance of wrinkles by up to 79.3%.

Hydra Calming Emulsion is a two-in-one serum and moisturiser which has been formulated with niacinamide, stablised vitamin E, pro-vitamin B5, saccharide isomerate and bulgarian rose extract to restore the youthfulness of the skin from within. This super hydrating and soothing complex targets multiple signs of ageing, gently calms and protects sensitive skin from external aggressors. For best results, apply to freshly-cleansed face and neck every morning and evening including the areas around the eyes. For dry skin, follow with moisturiser.


Amazing feeling! This is the perfect moisturizer!!! With a subtle rose smell and light consistence. I have a mixed face and I love the fact that this product does not give a greasy feeling. The skin absorbes the product and leaves my face and neck with a pleasant "silky" sensation. Would definitely recommend it to everyone. I have tried many different moisturizers in the market and I would say this is the most nurturing and effective one." Helena learn more >>>



Henry Tianus is a multi-award-winning Anti-Ageing Scientist based in London, UK. Henry Tianus has been listed as The Recognised Institute Practitioner at The Institute of Traditional Herbal Medicine and Aromatherapy (ITHMA), London (UK) since 2005. Henry Tianus's articles have been read by people in more than 100 countries with USA and UK at the top of the list. Join Henry Tianus eNewsletter to receive the latest health and wellbeing tips. 

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Scientific Sources: Vitamin C derivative ascorbyl palmitate promotes ultraviolet-B-induced lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity in keratinocytes, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2002 Nov, 119(5): 1103-8; Formulation and Characterization of Ascorbyl Palmitate Loaded O/W Microemulsion, International Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Vol 6, Issue 9, 2014.

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