Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a lipid-soluble vitamin C derivative. So far there is no reputable clinical study to back its skin benefit. In most (if not all) studies, there were other active ingredients purposely added to support the use of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. Therefore, there isn't any reliable data for its efficacy.
Vitamin C and Its Stability Issues in Skincare Products
L-ascorbic acid, the pure form of vitamin C has been proven to be effective in protecting the skin against free radical damage. However, this water soluble vitamin is quickly oxidised in contact with water.
Due to reaction with the oxygen atom of the water molecule (H2 O), L-ascorbic acid turned into dehydroascorbic acid. Compared to L-ascorbic acid, dehydroascorbic acid is lacking of two hydrogen atoms. This oxidised form of L-ascorbic acid is no longer have the antioxidant activities against free radicals.
There are many attempts to stabilise ascorbic acid by creating the more stable forms, known as vitamin C derivatives such as Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Palmitate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. However, numerous studies showed that none of them have comparable antioxidant properties to ascorbic acid.
Resveratrol: The Better Alternative to Vitamin C in Skincare Products
Some dermatologists are still recommending L-ascorbic acid skincare products, unaware that it is very unstable and has a very short shelf life in a water-based formula.
Vitamin C Skincare is often promoted to help protect skin against UV-induced signs of ageing such as wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and loss of skin matrix including the depletion of collagen and elastin.
Numerous studies showed that Resveratrol, naturally found in the skin of red grapes has an excellent antioxidant properties, greater than the antioxidant properties of Vitamin A, C, E, Catechin (in teas), Epicatechin (in cocoa), Gallocatechin (in adzuki beans), Gallic Acid (in blueberries), Ellagic Acid (in pomegranates) and Idebenone.
Resveratrol protects skin cells from free radicals, oxidative stress and sun-induced damage. It protects collagen from degradation, stimulates skin cells renewal, reduces hyperpigmentation and calms acne-prone skin.
Resveratrol is one of the bioactives in award-winning Bio-Collagen Serum. This super-concentrated face serum is probably the closest thing to a yet-to-be-found anti-ageing miracle in a bottle. Formulated with 8 active ingredients, Bio-Collagen Serum smooths out the appearance of wrinkles and lines while also lifts and firms the overall look of the skin. I formulated this facial serum for my mum, and now I use it everyday underneath Bio-Collagen Ageless Cream, an award-winning face cream to even out skin tone, plump up and restore skin's elasticity.
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Henry Tianus is a multi-award-winning Anti-Ageing Scientist based in London, UK. Henry Tianus has been listed as The Recognised Institute Practitioner at The Institute of Traditional Herbal Medicine and Aromatherapy (ITHMA), London (UK) since 2005. Henry Tianus's articles have been read by people in more than 100 countries with US, UK amd Canada at the top of the list. Join Henry Tianus eNewsletter to receive the latest health and wellbeing tips.
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Scientific Sources: Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage, Dermatologic Surgery, 2002 Mar, 28(3): 231-6.