Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: The Newer Vitamin C Derivative


" Like other stabilised forms of vitamin C, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has a considerably longer shelf life than ascorbic acid."


Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a lipid-soluble vitamin C derivative. So far there are limited studies about its benefit for the skin. In most studies, there were other active ingredients added to support tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. However, without a doubt, like other stabilised forms of vitamin C, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has a considerably longer shelf life than ascorbic acid (a pure form of vitamin C). 

Vitamin C and Its Stability Issues in Skincare Products

L-ascorbic-acid, the pure form of vitamin C, has been proven to be effective in protecting the skin against free radical damage. However, this water soluble vitamin C is quickly oxidised in contact with water.

Due to reaction with the oxygen atom of the water molecule (H2 O), L-ascorbic acid turned into dehydroascorbic acid. Compared to L-ascorbic acid, dehydroascorbic acid is lacking of two hydrogen atoms. This oxidised form of L-ascorbic acid is no longer have the antioxidant activities against free radicals.

There have been many attempts to stabilise ascorbic acid by creating the more stable forms, known as vitamin C derivatives such as Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Palmitate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. Nevertheless, numerous studies showed that none of them have comparable antioxidant properties to ascorbic acid.


" When a girl reaches a certain age a little smudge of Henry's magic goes a long way! It slides onto skin as smoothly as silk and leaves your face feeling plumped-up. You'll be amazed with the wrinkle-free results!" Best Night Cream, Natural Health learn more >>>


The Better Alternative to Vitamin C in Skincare Products

Some dermatologists are still recommending vitamin C skincare products that contain L-ascorbic acid as the main active ingredient. They are unaware of the instability and the very short shelf life of L-ascorbic acid in a water-base formula.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and other forms of vitamin C are often promoted to protect skin against UV-induced signs of ageing such as wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and loss of skin matrix including the depletion of collagen and elastin. As an anti-ageing scientist, I prefer to use other ingredients to get better results. One of my favourite ingredients is resveratrol. Numerous studies showed that resveratrol, naturally found in the skin of red grapes has excellent antioxidant properties, greater than the antioxidant properties of Vitamin A, C, E, Catechin (in teas), Epicatechin (in cocoa), Gallocatechin (in adzuki beans), Gallic Acid (in blueberries), Ellagic Acid (in pomegranates) and Idebenone. 

Resveratrol protects skin cells from free radicals, oxidative stress and UV-induced damage. It protects collagen from degradation. It stimulates skin cells renewal, reduces hyperpigmentation and calms acne-prone skin.

Resveratrol is one of the active ingredients of Bio-Collagen Serum. This award-winning rejuvenating lifting serum is probably the closest thing to a yet-to-be-found anti-ageing miracle in a bottle. Formulated with resveratrol, niacinamide, n-acetyl glucosamine, ferulic acid, coenzyme Q10 and 24-karat nano gold; Bio-Collagen Serum smooths out the appearance of wrinkles and diminish pigmentation spots. It also lifts and firms the overall look of the skin. I use it everyday underneath Bio-Collagen Ageless Cream, the award-winning extra firming and lifting cream to even out skin tone, plump up and restore skin's elasticity.


Facelift in a bottle! Delighted with my purchase. Within minutes my skin feels tighter and looks fresher. ” Rachel, UK learn more >>>



Henry Tianus is a multi-award-winning Anti-Ageing Scientist based in London, UK. Henry Tianus has been listed as The Recognised Institute Practitioner at The Institute of Traditional Herbal Medicine and Aromatherapy (ITHMA), London (UK) since 2005. Henry Tianus's articles have been read by people in more than 100 countries with USA and UK at the top of the list. Join Henry Tianus eNewsletter to receive the latest health and wellbeing tips. 

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Scientific Sources: Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage, Dermatologic Surgery, 2002 Mar, 28(3): 231-6.

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