Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: The Newer Vitamin C Derivative


" Like other vitamin C derivatives, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate offers a more stable form of vitamin C."


Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a lipid-soluble vitamin C derivative. So far there are limited studies about its benefit for the skin. In most studies, there were other active ingredients added to support tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. Like other vitamin C derivatives, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate offers a more stable form of vitamin C, however, its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities are weaker than those of L-ascorbic acid (also known as ascorbic acid). 

Vitamin C and Its Stability Issues in Skincare Products

As the purest form of vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid has been proven to be effective in protecting the skin against free radical damage and promoting collagen synthesis in the skin particularly collagen type 1. The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of L-ascorbic acid are by far the highest among all forms of vitamin C. However, this water soluble vitamin C needs to be stabilised in order to prevent oxidation upon contact with water.

Due to reaction with the oxygen atom of the water molecule (H2 O), L-ascorbic acid will turn into dehydroascorbic acid. Compared to L-ascorbic acid, dehydroascorbic acid is lacking of two hydrogen atoms. This oxidised form of L-ascorbic acid is no longer have the antioxidant activities against free radicals.

There have been many attempts to stabilise L-ascorbic acid by creating the more stable forms, known as vitamin C derivatives such as Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Palmitate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. Nevertheless, numerous studies showed that none of them have comparable antioxidant properties to L-ascorbic acid. L-ascorbic acid is by far still the most potent vitamin C. It has the highest vitamin C content among all forms of vitamin C.


A multi-award-winning vitamin C serum to rejuvenate and protect the skin from pollution, free radicals and premature signs of ageing learn more >>>


As a skincare scientist, I have been working with vitamins and other active ingredients for over 15 years. For my multi-award winning vitamin C serum, Antioxidant Youthful Essence, I use a synergetic combination of L-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, stabilised vitamin E and pro-vitamin B5 to eliminate the issue with vitamin C instability. L-ascorbic acid in a stable formula is one of the most effective weapon against premature ageing and skin damage including UV-induced damage. 

What Is Better than Vitamin C?

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and other forms of vitamin C are often used to protect skin from photoageing such as wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and loss of volume. Is there any better skincare ingredient than vitamin C?

In regard to vitamin C in skincare formulas, not all forms of vitamin C are equally good. To get the best results, instead of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, I prefer to use L-ascorbic acid. I highly recommend L-ascorbic acid for normal, combination or oily skin. If you have sensitive skin, niacinamide (vitamin B3) and saccharide isomerate are the better choices. Hydra Calming Emulsion is a two-in-one rejuvenating serum and featherlight soothing moisturiser with niacinamide, saccharide isomerate, vitamin E, pro-vitamin B5 and rose extract to restore skin's youthfulness, calm and protect sensitive skin from environmental damage.


Amazing feeling! This is the perfect moisturizer!!! With a subtle rose smell and light consistence. I have a mixed face and I love the fact that this product does not give a greasy feeling. The skin absorbes the product and leaves my face and neck with a pleasant "silky" sensation. Would definitely recommend it to everyone. I have tried many different moisturizers in the market and I would say this is the most nurturing and effective one." Helena learn more >>>


For ageing and mature skin, I highly recommend resveratrol. Numerous studies showed that resveratrol (naturally found in the skin of red grapes) has excellent antioxidant properties, greater than the antioxidant properties of vitamin A, C, E, catechin (in teas), epicatechin (in cocoa), gallocatechin (in adzuki beans), gallic acid (in blueberries), ellagic acid (in pomegranates) and idebenone. 

Resveratrol protects skin cells from free radicals, oxidative stress and UV-induced damage. It also protects collagen in the skin from degradation. It stimulates cell renewal, reduces hyperpigmentation and calms hormonal acne-prone skin during menopause. Using skincare products that contain resveratrol is extremely good during perimenopause, menopause and postmenopause.

As with vitamin C, resveratrol needs to be stabilised. In award-winning Bio-Collagen Serum, I have carefully combined 10 active ingredients including resveratrol, niacinamide, n-acetyl glucosamine, ferulic acid, coenzyme Q10, stabilised vitamin E and 24-karat nano gold to create a synergistic and stable anti-ageing formula. This ultra-powerful yet ultra-gentle-on-the-skin face serum smoothes out the appearance of wrinkles and diminishes pigmentation spots. With regular daily use, it helps lift and firm up the overall look of the skin. I use it everyday underneath Bio-Collagen Ageless Cream, the award-winning extra firming and lifting cream to even out skin tone, plump up and restore skin's elasticity.


Facelift in a bottle! Delighted with my purchase. Within minutes my skin feels tighter and looks fresher. ” Rachel learn more >>>


Why I don't recommend Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. It is made in the laboratories or factories by mixing ascorbic acid with other chemical(s). With a lower content of ascorbic acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is less effective than ascorbic acid.

By nature, ascorbic acid is water-soluble; forcing it to be oil-soluble will lower its activity and efficacy. Other than that, I don't see any problem with skincare products containing tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. Although it is not as potent as L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate still offers some degree of vitamin C benefits for the skin.



Henry Tianus is a multi-award-winning Anti-Ageing Scientist based in London, UK. Henry Tianus has been listed as The Recognised Institute Practitioner at The Institute of Traditional Herbal Medicine and Aromatherapy (ITHMA), London (UK) since 2005. Henry Tianus's articles have been read by people in more than 100 countries with USA and UK at the top of the list. Join Henry Tianus eNewsletter to receive the latest health and wellbeing tips. 

 Click To Join Henry Tianus eNewsletter >>>  


You may also like:


Niacinamide (Nicotinamide) for Youthful Radiant Skin

Niacinamide (Nicotinamide) for Youthful Radiant Skin

Niacinamide boosts the production of collagen in the skin by up to 54%; while it also increases the production of elastin and skin proteins by up to 20% and 100%. A clinical study showed that Niacinamide visibly improved the appearance of ageing skin and helped prevent the appearance of age spots by up to 68%.

 Read More >>> 



N-Acetyl Glucosamine

N-Acetyl Glucosamine: How To Reduce Age Spots and Hyperpigmentation

N-Acetyl Glucosamine is a nano peptide naturally extracted from the outer shells of shellfish. It penetrates deeper into the skin to reduce age spots, hyperpigmentation and other signs of ageing. Studies showed that it helps prevent the excess melanin production, boost hyaluronic acid synthesis and skin cell renewal.

 Read More >>> 



The Best Vitamin C for Your Skin

The Best Vitamin C for Your Skin

Scientifically known as the purest and most potent form of vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid has a significantly higher bioactivity in the skin than vitamin C derivatives such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, glyceryl ascorbate and ascorbyl glucoside.

 Read More >>> 




Resveratrol Reduces Hot Flashes, Risk of Cancer and Skin Ageing

Menopause doesn't increase the risk for cancer. Studies suggest that the long exposure to estrogen prior to menopause increases the risk of various cancers. Women who experienced menopause after the age of 55 or began menstruating before the age of 12 are both at a higher risk of having ovarian, breast and uterine cancer.

 Read More >>> 




Menopause: How to Reduce The Effects on Your Skin and Hair

There are some visible changes to the skin and hair during menopause. Usually one year after the last period, women find that their skin becomes drier and the signs of ageing look more prominent. With declining estrogen levels, many women experience thinning hair and notice more hair growing on their face.

 Read More >>> 



Colloidal Gold

Why Colloidal Gold Skincare is Great for Your Skin

Colloidal Gold is a suspension of gold nanoparticles in a fluid, usually water. Known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, studies showed that colloidal gold can penetrate deeper into the skin and acts as a carrier for other active ingredients to improve the efficacy of the skincare products.

 Read More >>> 




Resveratrol Reduces Signs of Ageing From Wrinkles to Pigmentation

Resveratrol is capable of neutralising free radicals and preventing oxidative damage. A study by University of Seville in Spain showed that resveratrol helps prevent and reduce chronic inflammation. It reduces the appearance of wrinkles, pigmentation spots and other visible signs of ageing in the skin.

 Read More >>>  



Skin Ageing

Skin Ageing: Why It Is Important To Know The Process

Your skin is constantly exposed to internal and external factors like genes, health condition, weather, pollution and microorganisms; hence, it is usually the first organ in your body that shows the signs of ageing. Ageing is a gradual process that happens because the body can't renew all the damaged cells and tissues.

 Read More >>> 



Dry Skin

How to Care for Dry Skin

With age, your skin tends to be drier, nevertheless, dry skin is a common skin problem across all ages. The sebum production is controlled by testosterone hormone. With age, the production of testosterone in both men and women declines. As a result, the older people get, the drier their skin is.

 Read More >>> 



Saccharide Isomerate

Saccharide Isomerate: A Hyaluronic Acid Booster To Reduce Wrinkles

Saccharide Isomerate boosts the hyaluronic acid production in the skin by up to 66% and reduces the appearance of wrinkles by up to 79.3%. It delivers long-lasting hydrating and smoothing effects up to 72 hours. It reduces flakiness, itchiness, dryness and tightness, and improves skin smoothness and softness by 50%.

 Read More >>> 



Cacay Oil

Cacay Oil Proven To Reduce Wrinkles and Pigmentation Spots

A clinical study in Germany showed that daily application of cacay oil within a 4 week period reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 45%. This study found that cacay oil boosts the skin's hydration and elasticity while also visibly smooths out the appearance of the skin and makes it look firmer.

 Read More >>> 



Skin Renewal

How Long does it take for Your Skin to Renew?

The skin cells turnover rate varies individually and age plays a major role. In babies, the skin renews itself every 14 days. In teenagers, this process takes about 28 days. In adults, it takes between 28 and 42 days. In those age 50 and older, the skin renewal process can take up to 84 days.

 Read More >>> 



Puffy Eyes

How to Get Rid of Puffy Eyes and Eye Bags

With age, the skin tissues and muscles around the eyes weaken. As a result, the supporting fats moved from the upper eye lids to the lower eye lids, causing the appearance of eye bags and puffy eyes. Apart from ageing and heredity, there are some other factors that can trigger puffiness around the eyes.

 Read More >>> 



Scientific Sources: Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage, Dermatologic Surgery, 2002 Mar, 28(3): 231-6.

Leave a comment