Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant with excellent anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties. Studies showed that vitamin C protects skin cells from environmental damage and premature ageing including photoageing.
There are various forms of vitamin C commonly used in skincare products including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, glyceryl ascorbate and ascorbyl glucoside. It is important to know which one is the most potent vitamin C.
The Best Vitamin C for Your Skin
Ascorbic acid (also known as L-ascorbic acid) is the natural form of vitamin C found in fruits and vegetables. Vitamin C derivatives are made by mixing ascorbic acid with other chemical(s), therefore vitamin C derivatives contain less ascorbic acid. Numerous studies showed that ascorbic acid is the most potent form of vitamin C.
Ascorbic Acid Has Excellent Anti-Free-Radical and Anti-Pollution Activity
As a potent antioxidant, ascorbic acid neutralises free radicals and protects our skin from pollutants in the environment. Pollution is one of the major ageing factors. It causes oxidative stress in our body. Ascorbic acid prevents oxidative damage in our body. The efficacy of ascorbic acid in preventing oxidative skin damage is further enhanced by combining it with vitamin E (The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health, Nutrients, 2017).
Ascorbic Acid Promotes Collagen Synthesis in The Skin
Vitamin C protects and stimulates the production of collagen in our body including in the skin. Among all types of vitamin C, ascorbic acid is known to have the highest collagen-boosting properties. Collagen is one of the major skin components in our body that gives skin its strength and firmness. Studies showed that ascorbic acid penetrates deeper into the skin and promotes collagen synthesis.
Ascorbic Acid Protects The Skin from Photoageing
A clinical trial by a group of scientists as published in the Experimental Dermatology showed that ascorbic acid has excellent photo-protective properties that help prevent and reverse UV-induced skin ageing. During the 6 month study, it was shown to visibly reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
The efficacy of ascorbic acid in preventing sun-induced skin damage is further increased when it is mixed with ferulic acid and vitamin E (The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2005). The sun is not the only source of UV lights. Digital devices such as smartphones, tablets, TVs and laptops are known to emit blue light which also damages the skin.
Ascorbic Acid Lightens Pigmentation Spots
A systematic review of 22,580 scientific articles on vitamin C (Journal of Oral and Maxillofacial Pathology, 2020) indicated that ascorbic acid is effective at reducing the appearance of pigmentation spots. Studies showed that ascorbic acid neutralises UV-induced free radicals, reduces and prevents excess melanin production due to sun exposure.
Skincare Products With Vitamin C
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Author:
Henry Tianus is a multi-award-winning Anti-Ageing Scientist with 25 years experience in skincare research and product development. Henry Tianus's articles have been read by people in more than 100 countries with USA and UK at the top of the list. Join Henry Tianus eNewsletter to receive the latest health and wellbeing tips.
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Scientific Sources: (1) The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health, Nutrients, 2017 Aug, 9(8): 866; Vitamin C in dermatology, Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 2013 Apr-Jun, 4(2): 143–146. (2) Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin, The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2005 Oct, 125(4): 826-32. (3) Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications, The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2017 Jul, 10(7): 14–17. (4) Efficacy of Vitamin C Supplementation on Collagen Synthesis and Oxidative Stress After Musculoskeletal Injuries: A Systematic Review, Orthopaedic Journal of Sport Medicine, 2018 Oct; 6(10): 2325967118804544. (5) Vitamin C and Skin Health, Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University. (6) Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo, Experimental Dermatology, 2003 Jun;12(3):237-44. (7) The effect of Vitamin C on melanin pigmentation – A systematic review, Journal of Oral and Maxillofacial Pathology, 2020 May-Aug; 24(2): 374–382. (8) Ascorbic acid, National Library of Medicine, National Center for Biotechnology Information (USA). (9) Preliminary Report of Chinese High Dose Vitamin C for Covid-19 Treatment Studies, Richard Z. Cheng, M.D., Ph.D, Orthomolecular Medicine News Service, August 16, 2020. (10) The efficiency and safety of high-dose vitamin C in patients with COVID-19: a retrospective cohort study, Aging (Albany NY), 2021 Feb 26:13(5):7020-7034, doi: 10.18632/aging.202557, Epub 2021 Feb 26.
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